How to paint Eldar Dire Avengers grim dark style

Eldar Dire Avenger

I've decided to take a fairly dark approach to painting my Dire Avenger here. More often than not, it seems like Eldar are treated almost like cartoons and painted in very pure, clean, bright colors. Dark Eldar get the dark and brooding color schemes, but I don't see many "dark" Eldar schemes.

That being said, here's how I went about giving this guy a dark look to his armour and that grim dark feeling overall.

Priming and basecoating the armour
Like I mentioned, these guys always seem to be painted up pure in color. I wanted to see if I could step away from that with this guy. I primed him black and knew I was going to leave a good bit of that showing. I had no intentions of painting every armour plate blue and then shading it all. I decided just to leave it black.


There are four steps to his armour. Three if you don't count priming the model black. The first step then would be to go over the prominent armour plates with GW Regal Blue. You want to be neat in your application, but you're not going to apply it over the whole model. The next picture will break down the areas better. Once that dries, it's a single highlight of GW Ultramarine Blue on a select few places. The last step (#4) is a quick wash over the whole model with GW Asurmen Blue to tone it all back down. We want dark remember?

Where you paint and highlight the armour
With this guy, I didn't paint every surface of his armour. When it came time to basecoat him (the previous step 2), I only applied the GW Regal Blue in the areas where light would hit it. Think of it as though the armour were actually black and you would be highlighting it with the Regal Blue color. It's only done on the upper and visible surfaces of the model that an overhead light source would hit.


This picture here shows you what I mean. The orange areas are where I applied the basecoat on the right side of the model. The yellow areas are the "highlight." If you notice the yellow marked highlights are only on his shoulders, chest and upper portions of his arms. I skipped the highlights on the rest of the model. This helps draw attention to his head area. The white helmet doesn't hurt either.

The whole armour process takes no time at all. You can get away with it for a couple reasons. The armour is dark blue. It's dark enough that people think the visible black is just blue in shadow. To help that, the basecoat color fades easily enough into black that you don't need perfectly wet blended gradients on his armour. I didn't worry about the blending at all honestly.

Painting the helmet
The helmet does require some work though. For no other reason than it's white. Even then, I really only painted mine light grey and highlighted with a little bit of white around the face. I wanted the grimy look. I painted his eyes first with red and gave them a GW Devlan Mud wash to darken them slightly and clean them up. After that, I painted the inset portion of his face mask black and blended in some GW Foundation Adeptus Battlegrey. The helmet overall is where I put the majority of my work in this model.


When it comes to the white on the helmet, the first step is getting a good basecoat of light grey. A few thin coats is all it took over the black. Over that, I gave it a wash with Secret Weapon Soft Body Black (step 2). I went heavy so that it pooled around the back of his helmet as though grime had built up. Once that dried, I touched up the very front of his helmet with the original light grey color. The last step is to take some thinned out white and go over the face area to make it stand out. It doesn't have to be much, just enough to give the feeling that the helmet is white.


The rest of the helmet is detailing so to say. The freehand is done with a brush and some thinned GW Charadon Granite. I kept away from using black because I didn't want the high contrast there. I wanted it dark, but not black. Black just looks odd to me with these kinds of things.

The crest started out all black and I blocked in the "yellow" areas with GW Foundation Dheneb Stone. Again, since I was going dark and more muted with my color scheme, I kept away from using a nice, bright yellow here. Over the Dheneb Stone, I applied a thinned wash of GW Foundation Iyanden Darksun. This gave me a very slight yellow tint to the lighter portions of the crest. Not wanting it to be too yellow, I gave the whole thing a light drybrush of light grey to give me my muted highlights. I took the same light grey color and thinned down enough to carefully draw a series of parallel lines over the top of the crest.

Had I thought about it ahead of time, I would have cut the grooves in before priming so my drybrushing could pick them out and I wouldn't of had to add them in as a faux texture. The whole thing is finished off with a wash of GW Devlan Mud to darken down the light portions and tone down the highlights some.

Painting the odds and ends
His short back tabard is treated in the same manner as his helmet is except you skip the thinned white highlights at the end. All of the metallic bits are done with Boltgun Metal and given a wash of Badab Black. I opted to leave off any gold thinking he was more of a rank and file troop that wouldn't have any fancy trinkets.

His gems are all red for consistency and they're done with the standard approach. Start black, fade red up from the bottom and add a small white dot at the top.

Some weathering and basing
I did go over this guy with a couple weathering powders. I hit the black areas with a metallic iron and added some brown around his feet. Not much more than that. His base was given a basecoat of GW Foundation Khemri Brown and two drybrushes, one of Dheneb Stone and then one of Bleached Bone. A thinned wash of GW Gryphonne Sepia darkened down the cracks between the stones. The base also comes from Secret Weapon Minis.


And here's the final model. All in all, I'm happy with how he turned out. He's almost Dark Eldar looking because he's so dark. I prefer this much more than the bright colors I usually see Eldar done in. This make them look much more sinister to me.

But then I messed the whole model up
If you look at the picture above, you'll notice the bright yellow static grass I added in between some of the cracks in the stones. It pretty much ruined the model. To the point where I have ordered a basing "kit" with a variety of grasses and I'm going to redo his base the right way.

Lots of times we add resin bases to our models and just paint them up. This works 99 percent of the time. Sometimes though, I think you have to look at your resin base as a backbone to work from. It's what you use to add your grasses, snow, gravel, water effects whatever on top of. I missed that opportunity here. I had a good backbone, but I fell short in finishing off the base.

I'll redo the base and post up some new pics in the coming weeks as soon as my basing kit arrives. I'll show you the difference when you go the extra step.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Zenithal highlighting, a look at how to do it
Painting an Ork over a dark colored primer color (black)
Using metallic weathering powders


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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From concept to reality, 3 FTW member posts

Cruising the FTW blog rolls and internet this week, I found some interesting things from members who have used what they found on From the Warp to help them with their hobby. Stuff I figured I'd pass along to you guys to check out to see what they're doing with the info they pick up here.

FTW posts that were linked to:
How to paint Space wolves (in light grey armour) quickly
How to create an effective Necron scarab swarm base

If you've got a post on your blog that shows what you were able to do with something you picked up here and it links back to FTW, let me know about it so I can highlight what you're doing!

Painting Space Wolves quickly
When I posted my Space Wolf painting tutorial the other week, I figured it would get some response and there might be the occasional person who picked it up and tried it on their own. Army Undecided has done that very thing with his Space Wolf army painted up in a light grey like I did with my own test model.


Image from Army Undecided

I think he's got a great looking tabletop ready force. The thing I like most though are the bases. He's got grass and snow on the base at the same time and that's not something you see often. Most of the time we all leave the grass off when we add snow, I'm guilty of it myself.
He's got more pictures of his Space Wolves on his site

Forge World scarab swarm
Everyone gets the Forge World emails. Lots of folks repost it on their blogs too... enough that you don't really need to subscribe the the original email anymore.
This past week though, they released their version of a Necron Scarab Swarm (their pic on the right over there).
Honestly, I'm a little disappointed.

I like the old school look, but it doesn't say swarm to me. Not like their Tyranid ripper swarms do. Those say swarm to me. Maybe I just want more on the base to give me that feeling of a carpet of them scampering across the surface of the battlefield and four bugs just don't do it.

Some folks have taken my idea/technique and improved on it. Like Eye of Error did the other month with his scarab swarms and including some mechanical bits on his bases.


Image from Eye of Error

The addition of more scarabs along with a themed base makes all the difference in the world to me. It's finding those little things you can do to your army that matter. They don't have to be really complex or difficult to do, but it's a matter of finding the right touches. That's what makes the difference and Eye of Error hit the nail on the head with his swarms.
You can see more of his scarab swarm bases here.


Image from Narceron

Another reader, Narceron, has used resin and some old school metal scarabs to create something similar. He's still in the building process I think, but I'm hoping he really loads them onto his bases a well and doesn't just go with 3 or 4 on each base.

I know he has tons of these guys made already and I'm waiting to see how they turn out in the end.
You can see his progress post here.


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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3 steps to fixing damaged boltgun barrels

damaged bolt pistol barrel

If you're not careful when you go to drill out your gun barrels, you can damage them beyond repair. Here's how you can fix that if you find yourself in this very situation.

As part of a project I was finishing up, I ended up getting a few models that had damaged gun barrels. It doesn't take much either, a slight misalignment of the hobby drill and the next thing you know, you're accidentally drilling out the side of your barrel and you've ruined the whole bit.

The best way I've found to fix this is to simply make a new gun barrel and glue it in place of the damaged one. It's not as hard as you think and you don't need anything more than you've probably already got lying around on your hobby desk.

What you're going to need to make a new barrel

gun barrel repair tools

You'll need a few things to pull this one off. The only thing not shown in the picture above is superglue. The X-Acto blade needs to have a new, sharp blade for this to work best. The drill is the standard GW drill.

The greenstuff is a previously cured roll that I made beforehand. I deliberately made it for this project in the same diameter as a bolter/bolt pistol gun barrel so I could use it for this very thing.

The order of operations
There is a sequence to doing things so you can make it as easy as possible. I've found that if I try it other ways, it tends to become a little more difficult as I go along. The overall idea is to keep as much stability in the greenstuff as long as possible while you're drilling and cutting away at it.

drilling out greenstuff

The first step is to cut one end of the greenstuff flat. This will be one end of the new gun barrel. Make sure it is nice and flat and not at an angle. This is where the file comes in for fine tuning the surface.

The second step is drilling the cross hole in the barrel. This is done with the drill bit just a tiny fraction of space back from the cut end of the greenstuff roll. Leave no more space than you want on the finished barrel here. It will be close to the edge, but if you're careful, you'll be fine.

Take your time when drilling and go slowly. That way, you get a nice, clean hole in the end. The greenstuff can be tricky so you'll need to just keep at it until you get a nice cross hole through the barrel.

The third step is to cut the other end of the barrel (the side that will mount to the weapon itself). Cut this close to side port so that the port is centered on the new length of barrel. You want this to be nice and square as well so that you get a clean, smooth, flat surface to glue to the gun itself. Use the file as needed again.

Last is gluing the new gun barrel to the previously cleaned up weapon front and finish it off by drilling out the muzzle itself again.

repaired bolt pistol gun barrel

Worst case scenario... you mess it up once again and have to start all over. The best thing though is that you don't lose the use of the entire bit because of a damaged gun barrel.

In the case of something like a heavy bolter, it's a matter of rolling out a larger piece of greenstuff to work with and drilling larger holes. With something like a storm bolter, you just do two of the smaller barrels and glue them side by side for the old school look.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to drill out gun barrels


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Model Masterclass, a new monthly series

As a way of pushing myself as a hobbyist over the next year, I've decided to try a new thing.

Last year, I found that my modeling and painting improved most when I was given a project by someone and it wasn't exactly something I was used to doing.

A perfect example was the Warmachine model I painted for a friend of mine to help him finish his army and get it on the tabletop.

From that model and a few other sources of inspiration, I decided it would be cool to try my hand at something "new" each month designed to help me push my modeling and painting skills. With real life creeping closer and closer to hobby time, I want to make sure I get the most of the time I do have this year. I also thought it would be cool to enlist the help of a good friend to keep me motivated, provide support and challenge me.

Enter John from Santa Cruz Warhammer. Having met him a few years ago at Games Day for the Storm Wardens project, I knew he'd be the perfect fit. Fortuntately for me, he agreed to take part in my silly idea and you all get to see our work each month or at least until he gets tired of my games.

So how's it going to work?
Easy, each month John and I are going to come up with a cool project (nothing big, most likely single model) to work on and share our results. We're going to take turns coming up with ideas each month so we can both torture the other guy with crazy models to build and paint. It won't be limited to just 40k either... the idea is to come up with cool ideas that challenge you in painting or modeling in some way or another.

Something that you don't do often or maybe never at all.

The series will create two posts each month. Somewhere around the middle of the month we'll share the project idea along with our plans. At the end of the month you guys get to see our work and listen to us ramble on about what we tried to accomplish.

I asked John what he though about the whole thing and here's his take on the project:

Looking forward to participate in this with you Ron, lately I have found myself easily distracted from painting, and I seem to work much better with a challenge and some structure.
In my opinion, my best work has been done with a deadline or something out of my comfort zone. I think this is a great way to push yourself to try new colors, techniques, and products while improving yourself as a hobbyist.
It's a great feeling to look at a model when you finish it and think "Wow, I did that!" and I am looking forward to doing some challenging work off of my regular and well beaten path.
Bring it on!


So John's excited and I'm happy to be able to work on something smaller in scale each month that's not the normal stuff I've been doing. My hope is that you all enjoy the new series and can pick up a trick or two from our adventures.

Work has already begun for February. You guys can expect to see our project plans in a couple weeks around the middle of the month.


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your thoughts about the new series here in the comments below!

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MK6 Space Marine armour conversion


When I was making this model, I decided I would try to do a few conversions to a regular Space Marine model (using parts from the basic Tactical squad box only) to get a more accurate MK6 armour pattern. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible and still get the most bang for my buck.

Using what I had vs. what I needed to make
Most of this conversion comes from using specific bits already available. The classic "beakie" helmet and studded shoulderpad were perfect for this. I chose the legs without the articulated knee pads as well. The solid piece greave is another one of those MK6 identifiers. Like I said, I wanted to keep this one simple.


The right shoulderpad has had the trim carefully shaved away. The chest piece has had it's iconography cleaned off as well. There is one chest piece in the boxed set that has next to nothing on it and that's a perfect one to start with. The other part that is cut away is the cable bundle from the abdomen section.

What I had to convert and sculpt
Not counting the cleaning of the right shoulderpad and chest plate, I only needed to sculpt a small attachment to the backpack and a few elements to the chest plate.


Let's start with the backpack. Taking a piece of greenstuff and pressing it flat on the backpack provided the base for the ribbing. I cut the ends away at the correct lengths and then pressed a series of ribs into it.

I did use a little extra to fill in the vent holes usually found across the top of the backside of the backpack. That's just a matter of pressing the greenstuff in until you fill those vents left showing around your new ribbing.

The chest plate is the most work of all. I started by using a little bit of greenstuff to fill in the cut away abdomen detail. It doesn't have to be perfect since it will most likely be covered up by the arms and a gun. That and part of the chest cables will cover it as well.

To get the chest cables started correctly, I began with the connection box in the middle of the chest. It started out as a blob I flattened out and cut to shape. Once it cures completely, you can work on adding the cables off the sides. The small disc sitting on top of it is a very thin sliver of greenstuff cut from a cured length I had lying on my desk and glued in place on top.

The cables are rolled lengths of greenstuff that are placed in position and slightly flattened in place. They aren't round like regular power cables. Once you have them positioned, it's a matter of taking your X-Acto blade and cutting a series of ribs into them along their length.

The bottom cable runs from the belt buckle up to the chest connection point. The shoulder cables run from the same connection point up to and over the shoulders. You can taper them off as you get to the top of the shoulder or run them over the shoulder to the backpack connection point. Either way works since they'll most likely be covered by the huge shoulderpads once they're glued in place.

There is one more cable that runs from the collar down to the chest connector. It's the hardest one to get in place because of collar itself and it's so short. There are some weird angles there, but it's not impossible. Another bonus is that you won't really see the thing either due to the helmet once it's in place.

And that's it, a more accurate MK6 armour conversion. You can sub out the pieces you need to if you're making more. I'm thinking about the legs, but the non-articulated ones work best for this conversion. The chest and backpack conversion can be done to any backpack and chest plate that comes in the space marine box.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Making a power armoured Chaplain skull helmet
Editorial: Conversions live and die by the tiny details


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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FTW Blog rolls being overhauled


Some of you may have noticed that the FTW Blog rolls have been temporarily removed. The first of the year saw me start to clean them up and get them back up to speed. As the rolls have grown over the years, there have been a number of issues. Everything from overcoming Blogger's limits on maximum blogs listed in each roll to the size of thumbnails and how to break up long links that can't really be broken. I won't even get into the practice of getting them to scroll... but just vertically and not horizontally.

Behind the scenes
I usually do some kind of work to them each week as I try not to let the regular updating get too far behind or it takes me forever to catch up. As it turns out, I've been trying to update them for the past two weeks and have been unable to do any work at all to them. Not because I couldn't find the time, but because something is wrong with them. I haven't been able to do anything like add new members, remove old sites, remove dead links and suspend inappropriate content as it pops up.

Something is wrong with the rolls
As I realized the scope of the problem with the rolls, I decided to do some much needed work to them overall. Some of you may recall the poll I had the other week where I asked folks about where they though they should be located (their own page or as they are). That was part of the process... I was curious to see where folks thought they should be placed and if they needed to be given more space on the site.

I started to go through them one at a time (all 750 plus members) looking for issues. I found everything from dead sites to invalid ones, suspended accounts, ones that would not load properly, ones that crashed the widget when I tried to resave it again... everything was in there. Even with the close eye I keep on them, stuff gets by over time.

So what have I done now?
Right now, I have all of the FTW members blog links in a database. The link list takes up 11 pages single spaced. I've spent most of today trying to find a way to get the dead sites removed and adding the almost dozen new members to the rolls. I still have not been able to do it.

Because I'm unable to maintain them, I have temporarily removed them from the site. I know this will impact everyone who is currently listed and it's not a decision I take lightly.

So what's going to happen to the rolls?
I am looking at ways to get all of the blogs into one master roll. I've spent some time looking for feed aggregators that can handle that number of feeds and not crash from the sky in a ball of flame. Most I come across are designed for a few (less than 10) blogs. I've also come across a handful of methods that no longer work due to the problems with trying to do this kind of thing apparently. Seems as though they started out working, but ending up not doing so well.

I'd like to see if I can find a system that can handle the load and is reliable.

So what can you do to keep your readership and traffic up?
I know some folks get their traffic from the rolls or at least they tell me they do. There are a few things you can do to bring traffic to your site.
1. Post quality content.
2. Post on a consistent schedule.
3. Write good headlines that describe your posts accurately.

Those three are the big ones. Pictures are nice, but those three are the top ones in my book. There are a few more things I am going to do as well.

Guest post here on FTW
If you're interested, let me know by email. I'm looking for original content that has not been posted elsewhere and covers the modeling and painting aspect of the hobby. If you'e interested and want to talk more about Guest posting and some of the aspects about it, please email me and I'll be happy to share my experiences.

The Hobby Focus Series
I'll be continuing this series as I find all kinds of things in my internet travels that I like to share. This series will continue to spotlight individual blogger's work.

Send me your links
If you link to FTW in one of your own blog posts (like some folks do when duplicating tutorials), let me know about it. Either leave a comment or email me directly and I'll see about getting a link to your blog post added back into my original post.

If you're a commission artist and you want your site to have a link in the Reviews and Resources page, send me an email. I'll need your link and the name you want your site listed under. I know there are a few bloggers out there that used their spot in the rolls as a way of showcasing their work.

The future of the blog rolls
Stay tuned folks, I'm working on getting the three blog rolls on track. I do not know when I will be putting the rolls back up though. I am going to continue to look for a way to inlcude all the blogs in one roll that is reliable and allows me the ability to manipulate it as needed in order to keep it current.

Thanks for all of the continued support!

UPDATE: I am working on collecting every blog into my Google Reader. This will allow me to do two things.
1. Keep track of everyone.
2. Export the list into other potential programs for feeding.


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share any thoughts, suggestions or possible solutions you may have in the comments below!

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Forge World Venerable Deathwing dreadnought

Last Updated: Feb 19

One of the last commissions I am finishing up is a Venerable Dark Angels Deathwing dreadnought made of Forge World bits. It's the last project I had hoped to finish before going back to school, but a project like this takes so much time it's crazy.

My hope for this post is to turn it into a mega-post that I can update regularly with my progress over the next few weeks as I steal time here and there to work on it. To that end, it won't be a bunch of smaller posts that go up every week or so, but one big one I'm going to keep adding to since my hobby time is hit and miss now.

A little background on this guy
He is part of the Deathwing squad I did earlier last year. As soon as I finished them, my Client contacted me and asked if I would do a dreadnought to add to the squad. Of course I said yes when he gave me completely free run on the model and told me to build something I thought looked cool and would go with the squad. Who can pass something like that up? Projects like that come along once in a lifetime if you're lucky.

Since I figured he'd be doing Space Hulk clearing work, I opted to load him out with a massive chainfist thing for breaching bulkheads and the like along with an inferno cannon. I can't think of a more terrifying weapon in the confines of a ship than a huge flamethrower. All of the model pieces come from Forge World and the base is from Secret Weapon Minis. It's from the Flight Deck line and is what the squad is on.

I've talked about the bases before and wanting something clean and uncluttered to show off the model. Secret Weapon has two versions of this 60mm base and I chose the one with the crates to break up the huge expanse of base in this particular case and create a little atmosphere for the model. Nothing else will be added to the base aside from the fine surface detail on it already.

Cleaning and Assembly notes:
I managed to get everything cleaned up which took a few days to go over with a fine tooth comb and catch all the mold lines. Then it was a quick bath in warm soapy water to remove any release agent and greasy fingerprints.



Assembly was quick, but repair work took a few days. Things like filling in small gaps here and there and small surface imperfections on the model with greenstuff took an afternoon here and there. I also caught a few more smaller mold lines that I missed the first time around.

I had to bend the inferno cannon slightly to get it straight and ended up cutting out around almost every individual tooth on the chainfist due to flash and excess resin in there. Actual surface imperfections weren't too bad although there were some dimpled surfaces I had to fill out to get level. It seems like the more you look at a model, the more things you find wrong with it. Sometimes I have to take a break after looking at it for so long as things start to blur together and I forget where I'm at.

Do you have any idea how long it took me to figure out where the tiny multi-melta gun goes? I thought it went on his arm somewhere, but I couldn't find it to save my life. I tried attaching that gun to every possible surface of his arm.

It wasn't until I dropped the bit and it landed in between his arm and torso that I figured out it went there. Talk about feeling stupid.

Jan 21: The model has been primed
He's been given a quick coat of light grey primer that will will act in part as the basecoat as well since I'm doing the blended bone color armour on this guy.


He doesn't have much along the lines of actual armour plating. Some small areas on his chest, his leg plates and his shoulder which are the biggest areas. The majority of the work is going to be in the details on this guy. He's covered in detailing that I'm going to have to go in and pull out. That's where the real time will be spent.

Jan 27: Brass etch and pinned to the base
He's been given a few more small details like some brass etch and has been pinned to his base now. I went back and forth with the pinning or not to before I painted him and I decided to do it in order to make it easy to handle him for the rest of the process.


I was torn at first with the brass etch... I wanted to keeping looking around on the model for more places to add it for detail but elected to do it in one place only and add some freehand later on in places that were still left open.


When it came time to pin him to the base, I was left wondering exactly how to do it. The undersides of his feet do not actually touch the base, only the pads of his toes. I decided on pinning each foot as best I could. Since this is more of a display piece, I'm not worried about him breaking away. The pins with the superglue should be more than enough to hold him securely.

Feb 5: Basecoat finished and shading started
This weekend was taken up with some family stuff and writing a paper for my college class. When I did steal a few minutes, I cleaned up the basecoat on this guy and started cutting in for the armour. By that, I mean painting the areas that will be darker later on.
Basically everything that is not bone colored armour.


When I'm done with this step, I'll be giving him a liberal wash of Devlan Mud and then going back in to clean up all the armour plating. After that, it start blending each individual plate from bone to light grey based on a zenith lighting approach.

Feb 17: Model washed and ready for blending
I managed to get the dreadnought washed this week. I know, not much progress, but every little bit helps. I'm hoping to make some big progress this weekend though.


Now that he is washed, all I need to do is go over the armour areas with the light grey color and then painstakingly blend the bone color into that where appropriate.

Feb 19: Basecoats and blending

I'm in the middle of getting the armour completed right now. After I had it washed, it was a matter of going back and cleaning everything up. Then I started the blending. Every single armour plate.




While it took forever, the armour looks amazing when it's blended like this. There's just something about it. With the bone armour done, I've started working up the other portions of the model. The metallics, the gold areas, etc. Once I get all these laid out and base coated, it will be time for some freehand and battle damage.

More coming soon...


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Hobby Focus: Conversions that capture a feeling



Pictures from Warhammer in Progress

Sometimes it's as simple as a head swap to get the right look you want. Other times, it can be building a whole new model from parts. Either way, getting the right "feel" or look to your model is something we all strive for on one level or another.

This week, I grabbed these pics from Warhammer in Progress. It comes from a previous post where he's showcasing his Nurgle models that double in use for his Daemon force as well.

These guys speak to me as conversions. I think they look great.
They capture the feel of a Nurgle type spawn creature. Something you know is daemonic, something you can't tell what parts are what or where the mouth and eyes are... and you hope you can put enough bullets into it before it reaches your lines.

I've always been jealous of folks who can do this kind of work. Ork players are up there too. Those guys come up with some of the best conversions around as well.


This thing is just mean looking

My friend has some amazing looking Ork battlewagons. Sure, they do the same thing as a regular battlewagon that's not converted at all, but they add so much more to the look of the force after his conversion work. They give the army a certain feel to it.


A great looking Daemon from another friend of mine

Next time you get a chance, take a minute and try to capture the "feel" of your force with your conversion work. It doesn't have to be big or involved to be successful, you just have to give it try.

Make sure to check out the other Hobby Focus Articles too!


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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DIY Space Marine Veteran squad


These guys are the last of a huge commission I've been doing for the past year or so. They are painted up a little better than tabletop so they can be used as a squad or broken up and used as Sergeant figures in other squads.

This biggest thing I did with these guys was clean up my brush work and then blend their shoulderpads. It's a small thing, but it helps make them stand out from the other guys who just have line highlighted shoulderpads. That and they have bone colored helemts which really pop against the black and purple armour.


You'll have to forgive all the white specs on his shoulderpad. I hadn't noticed them there until it was too late and the squad was already packed up for mailing. It's just the fine dust from cleaning other models nearby and it's not really part of the model.


In the end, purple is such a cool color for armour. You don't see it that often and it looks so sharp on the table.
As a side note, this is the squad that I tried painting the base first and I liked that I didn't have to worry about drybrushing the highlights on the base with a completed model in the way.

I do have a follow-up post to painting purple where I go over a quick method and a more involved one for painting purple armour on Space Marines.
In this case it's for a Hawk Lord marine, but the purple is the same and I've included some weathering tips in there as well.

You can look though the rest of the project here.
My Project Link: Space Marines Commission

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Painting black, everything I've gone through to date
Line highlighting made simple


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Thursday night's Old Timer's League: Jan 15

So I managed to squeeze some time into my Sunday and stopped by to see how the Old Timers were doing at Game Vault this past weekend. I know, the post title says Thursday, we meet on every other Sunday, but it's a long story and I'd rather not try and explain the whole thing.

It was nice to see what the fellas have been up to and see what everyone was working on. I snapped a few pics of some models that caught my attention this week and wanted to share them here.


Our resident IG player took the time to paint the inside of his Valkyrie cockpits. That's right, plural... he has two of them like this. Don't I feel like a slug now. I never paint the insides of any vehicles. I glue hatch doors shut when I can and even skip priming the insides if I can get away with it.

I came close to painting the inside of a cockpit once with my Eldar Vypers, but that was only a "glow" from the instrument panel so I only needed to use one color. Even when I go the extra distance on my models, I do it on the cheap.


The next two are Necron related and the one above is a Necron Catacomb Command Barge I think. He's painted it up like I painted his other vehicle using a drybrush method to get it done relatively quick. Looks good and with a little more work, it will make for a nice centerpiece vehicle for his Lord to travel in style.


This next one is perhaps my favorite. It's some version of a Necron flyer that a model doesn't exist for yet. He's got the bones down so far and is planning on adding more to it when he gets more time. I think this thing just looks so cool. He's even got it mounted on a flying stand.

That's it for this week.
Make sure to check out the other Old Timer Articles!


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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